Carlos wrote:You might consider a rocker-type front suspension:
An exposed shock/spring suspension:
A wishbone torsionbar suspension:
Heres a square tube spaceframe with stressed panels, with some details on tube sizes and suspension details that might be interesting:
noticed something else.
There is a bit of space left between your lower a-arm and the rim.
You can lower your a-arm so you will be able to mount it to the node of your tubes on the chassis instead of putting your tubes into bending.
This will also reduce the forces in the pushrod and in the a-arms as the pushrod angle and the leverage on the upright increases. Furthermore you will get the weight closer to the ground.
Also the arrangement where the push rod bearing is actually on the active radius(or arc whatever you call it) has less clearance so a you only get a smaller rotation before the push-rod hits up into the bell-crank. This was mostly the reason for me to offset the bearing (but still keeping it on the initial line of action)
Point A is the setup with the bearing right on the effective radius. Imagine the bell crank rotation CCW, there will be a point where the push rod clashes into the pink area. The effective radius also decreases slightly
I noticed that both setups will only be at 90 degrees for only one instance in position anyway; as soon as the push rod moves the angle decreases. This is because the arc of the control arm is not the same radius as the bell crank arc. So I focused on keeping it in a small range around 90.
The other advantage is that since B is rotation on a larger radius (not effective radius just the radius to the bearing).. the pusrod stays more vertical and hence the effective radius increases slightly.
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