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I'm having a strange problem with brakes on my car (Honda Integra Type-r) and are hoping somebody may be able to help....

I changed the disks and pads for standard items due to brake judder. After about 2000 miles they started to judder again but only when very hot.

I then changed them for Brembo drilled disks and uprated DS2500 brake pads.

Again about 2000 miles later they judder but only when they are very hot.

The car is driven VERY hard to be fair but I don't understand whats happening to make them judder only when hot.

We once measured the brake temps and after braking, pulling over and getting the gauge on the disks were circa 420deg C. I;m not sure if that's classed as hot for a road car but its a bit more info for you.

Any idea what could be causing this strange only when hot and after multiple heat cycles issue?

Many thanks.

For future reference I've managed to fix the issue (after hours of reading).

Torqued the nuts up correctly then did about ten 80-20 stops consecutively to sort of re-bed them in a bit.

Must have been a wheel nut issue all along!!

Is this the same Integra you drove at the 'Ring?

Yes.

DC2 or DC5?

It's always good to see a fellow ITR owner on here

By judder, do you just mean pedal movement?

According to Stoptech:

uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.

DC2

Judder/vibration through the steering wheel only.

As above though it turns out it was because I needed to torque my wheel nuts up correctly.

I would never in a million years think that would have casued it but its apparently quite a common thing and fixed it pretty much instantly!

God the idea of wheels coming off at speed are nightmarish for me

JDM or UKDM/EUDM or USDM?

UKDM.

They were really tight (indeed tighter than the requied torque) - just not equal.

There was a USDM Type R?

Some guy at my gym had a RHD Typre R, which was totally unecessary if there was a LHD available.

Yes there was a USDM. It was even available in yellow which we didn't get on the UKDM.

reference wheel nuts/studs

with OEM manufacturer endurance testing at the Ring ,they use the nuts /bolts only for a really short period because of the extreme stresses (you have to change wheels quite frequently on the track).One of their test drivers told me he lost a car in the downhill section towards bridge,after loosing a wheel..he had heard two very loud
high tone noises a few hundred meters before the accident(loosing two wheelbolts due to fatigue failure)...the car was a write off actually.
Details make a difference,and rest assured those wheelnuts were perfectly torqued and apperently all was safe until...

mx_tifosi wrote:There was a USDM Type R?

Some guy at my gym had a RHD Typre R, which was totally unecessary if there was a LHD available.

actually the JDM one has a different front fascia, and more power. and it's JDM YO!

I believe the interiors are different too.. (not the steering wheel on the wrong side) the seats/material etc...

mx_tifosi wrote:There was a USDM Type R?

Some guy at my gym had a RHD Typre R, which was totally unecessary if there was a LHD available.

If it's LHD it'll be a USDM which is fake Type R It runs a lower compression ratio - the engine isn't as good.

djones, I have a UKDM too.

sticky667, the UKDM and JDMs have the same interior but the USDMs have a very, very poor interior.

Were they nuts or bolts, and what did you torque them up to?

They are nuts.

I torqued them up to 108nm as per the owners book.

At a guess before this they will have ranged from about 130 to 150