Wheel Nuts - Right Hand and Left Hand Thread

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Post Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:36 am

SpookTheHamster wrote:There's an excellent thread already on the fsae forums about single wheel nuts: http://fsae.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1256 ... 4610603711

How are you justifying the need for a single wheel nut and the risk it brings in a series where there are no pit stops to reap the benefit of a fast wheel change?


A very fair question. You're right, there are no pit stops and a quick wheel change isn't necessarily required, but there are moments when you need to change wheels quickly due to weather changes, but a single nut won't benefit that much.
We've always had a single nut on our cars, so its easier to improve on a design which we have and I think its beneficial for me to design a feature used on high end racing cars. Even though aesthetics shouldnt be important, a single nut is visually better I find and it brings the car closer to a professional formula car which might help on the marketing and sponsorship side of things.

I'd be interested to find out why Porsche have fitted one to their GT3 RS aswell.

riff_raff wrote:Race Tech no.115, p.34-38.

http://issuu.com/thisisnotadrill/docs/rceteh115webpub


Thanks great article.
balangproject
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Post Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:55 pm

Porsche's reasoning will be entirely commercial/aesthetic. They're selling the idea of a race car for rich people to use on the road, so it has to look racey.
SpookTheHamster
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Post Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:09 am

Jersey Tom wrote:When you torque the wheel nuts and send the car on it's way, there will be a fair amount of contact force between the nut and wheel. My understanding of the concept is that under braking, if there's any slop between the wheel and the drive studs that allow the wheel to rotate a bit... there is enough friction between wheel and nut to drag the nut in the direction of rotation and self-tighten it.

Either way, the amount of slop there is likely going to be small and the effect probably isn't huge. And in any event, I know that current era pro open wheel cars have positive locking mechanisms on the hub & nut to prevent any rotation and all. That is still the most effective fail safe, and the mechanism only unlocks when the impact gun goes over the nut.


Memories from reading my machine design book, small vibrations during the period you describe above causes threads to lift and the nut/bolt to spin. So having the tighten rotation the same as the forward rotation of the wheel actually causes the nut to tighten when the nut starts to move.

I don't know how many of you guys have ever used an angle grinder before, but you can slip the holding nut on the spindle and turn the grinder on and the nut will tighten. The same goes for hole saw mandrels, and the engine fan on my BMW. I only need to tighten the fan nut with my hand, and when I turn on the engine the rotation does the rest.
"I was blessed with the ability to understand how cars move," he explains. "You know how in 'The Matrix,' he can see the matrix? When I'm driving, I see the lines."
n smikle
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Post Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:27 pm

Memories from reading my machine design book, small vibrations during the period you describe above causes threads to lift and the nut/bolt to spin. So having the tighten rotation the same as the forward rotation of the wheel actually causes the nut to tighten when the nut starts to move.

.
And that explains why them old Plymouth lug nuts on that side were so hard to get off. :wink:
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strad
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Post Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:49 am

I read the article where Symonds describes the theory, but I don't know if I entirely believe it. Most of the mechanism Symonds describes for a pin-drive, centerlock wheel nut coming loose seems plausible, with the exception of one variable. And that variable is the prevailing clamped friction force between the wheel and axle flange face.

Proper design would seem to dictate that the prevailing clamping friction at the wheel/axle flange interface due to the installed nut preload should always be adequate to resist the shear forces applied, due to braking/driving torques or wheel bump forces. As Symonds noted, there will always be some small clearance between the drive pins and the mating holes in the wheel. So unless the wheel is tightly clamped against the axle flange, there will be a small, constant, relative sliding motion between the two. This would produce fretting, which is normally a condition to be avoided.

If there were indeed any relative sliding between the wheel and axle, the nut would loosen very quickly, due to the high cyclic load frequency rate that exists here. As a matter of interest, production car wheel fastenings (lugs) are designed to transfer forces solely via clamped friction between the wheel and axle.
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riff_raff
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Post Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:37 am

riff_raff wrote: And that variable is the prevailing clamped friction force between the wheel and axle flange face.


Symonds says in the last sentences of the article that a wheel nut tightened properly is not going to come loose. He acknowledges the importance of the clamping force earlier in the article.

Brian
hardingfv32
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