Dave is 100% right.
If your friction circle is similar to a "circle" or elipse (mind that braking accel will always be bigger than foward acceleration) you will be faster and tires will last longer.
If the higher quarters has the shape of the red line I draw, that means you brake first and once slow, you begin turning. Like Dave said, "you smash brakes in straight line and then begin turn in".
This movement lacks of "continuity" if you allow me the word. Tires suffer in one direction and suddenly in another direction at 90°. In all materials, that causes fatigue.
If the tyre can handle a certain amount of Gs (for a determinate speed, lets say 2G laterally and 2G longitudinally) the ideal friction circle has a 2G long radius. You must try to drive as close to that circle as you can.
That means you have to brake while turning! Brake Pedal pressure and steering wheel angle should go inverselly proportional.
Here, Blue driver is faster and smoother than Red driver.
Regarding your setup question at Spa:
Ride height is always determined by car´s floor wear. Try to use the minimun and analise how it is after some laps. If its consuming fast, increase ride height. Soft suspension will increase squat and so floor wear, you´ll need a higher car. The rear is higher than the front because usually you use a softer rear (to help traction).
Also mind that trail braking with a keyboard is harder than with a wheel, cause the lack of analogical input.
"You need great passion, because everything you do with great pleasure, you do well." -Juan Manuel Fangio
"I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." -Ayrton Senna