marcush. wrote:question to the aero guys following this thread:
you mentioned VGs to be mounted in front of the front of the car body as well as in front of the drivers helmet
just out of curiosity , what is your feeling of the dimensions and actual position of these devices?
For luke this may be a do or die decision as he´s facing a maximum length of the vehicle restriction so anything forward of the car will reduce total length of the
main body...
second ,with the cockpit opening not allowed to be sealed or closed by doors or panels ,would it be best to curl the edges of the body inwards or outwards forming a
half pipe rail ?
Obviously one could customize Lauras Driving suit (or helmet ?) to close the opening with something collar like ,just like a tube of a bike tyre.....would look funny out of the car but if it lowers drag.. she could surely learn to live with that ...its also characterbuilding...
and as Rossi and co are driving bikes with a humpback ....it´s not so bad after all...
Here's a link to a pic of what I would do. The bright green is a floor extending beyond the front of the car, like a splitter. That will keep airflow from going under the car, but mainly it's to mount a large VG winglet onto, standing straight up with a squared end. It should have a pretty large chord, meaning it's kind of fat looking, as wings go. The intent here is to create a large vortex ahead of the car to reduce drag on the nose.
Then in red is a similar but smaller VG in front of the driver's helmet and roll hoop. It should be high enough that it's out of the boundary airflow and high enough that the vortex it creates hits at about the face shield level or higher.
In blue are locations for small VGs on the surface to keep the boundary layer glued to the surface change where the body starts to taper down. I wouldn't worry about tapering the sides of the body. You can leave them flat.
The dotted line at the back is for a diffuser at a very gradual angle, about maybe 4-5 degrees. That will reduce drag further. Going with more angle will increase drag though so keep the angle low. And of course you MUST have a full floor on the car with as little openings for tires, etc as possible.
In yellow is a cockpit air dam. Extend it all the way around and tie it smoothly into the roll hoop with a nice curve that blends into the curve of the roll hoop. This will control the boundary air around the cockpit area and keep you from creating turbulence in the boundary air where the roll hoop meets the body.
There is no need or desire to radius the corners of the body the way the CFD model was done. That design presumes a larger frontal area because your tires would have to be inside of the radiused portion, making the body frontal area larger than it needs to be. You want to minimize that frontal area. In addition the radiused corners of the model encourage airflow from the top to roll onto the sides of the vehicle, creating lift, of course in a minor way but it does happen. Don't let the airflow from the top spill onto the sides. A square edge does this nicely. If you wanted downforce you could even make the sides higher than the top, creating dams along the sides. It would increase drag somewhat though. BTW, if you need to make the sides around the front tires out of flexible material and then build a frame around the front tires so you can build the body right up against the front tires. That might help you to minimize frontal area even more. Oh, and shorten the track of the rear axle. That will help the car to turn.
Since most of these things are "tack ons" you could easily test the nose VG, the cockpit VG, and the small body VGs in coast down testing.
Keep in mind that with the nose and cockpit VGs you are creating a vortex at the top edge of them so the tops should be in line with your maximum drag areas. You might try tuning them by adjusting the height of the VGs, though the pic will give an idea of what I would start with.
The tail of your body tapers quite quickly right now. If you have the length available I would taper it at a slower angle to help ensure that the boundary layer stays attached. A max 10 degree angle of change is a good thumbnail angle to keep boundary flow intact.
Of course if you do these things I would truly love to hear the results of your testing. Not so much if you win races, though that is of course the goal. Do the coast down testing and see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't then don't use these ideas. I'm very sure they will though.
One last thing .. in the pic the car is maybe 10 feet from the pylons. Keep that car tight to the pylons in the corners to shorten the path as much as possible. If the car starts to scrub speed at those turning radiuses work on the ackerman to reduce that scrub as much as possible. You are going to get some scrub from your solid rear axle setup but it might not be too evident with your low drag tires. If you corner fast enough you might consider some tricks to eliminate that scrub problem too. I have some ideas on that for later on.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c- ... directlink